After a couple of days, we now begin to get into the rhythm of trekking. Wake-up call each morning around 6 am, having a quick breakfast of Tibetan bread and tea, then heading out in the cool morning.

As a blue-white day rises up around us from the dark blue palette of the perished night, we pass a wonderful stupa -a large Tibetan prayer structure- just out of town, on top of the hill.

Almost like a ghost amongst the incense smoke, an old woman is kneading ivory beads with one dried hand and with the other gave the many wheels a twirl, whispering incessantly the single mantra that calls the universe to attention: OM!